Discover: An Enchanting Walk Through Kingley Vale

From the bustle of Portsmouth to the quiet majesty of Kingley Vale, a walk amongst ancient yews and chalk grassland reveals the mystery and stillness of one of the South Downs’ most soul-stirring places.

Jeff Travis, South Downs National Park’s Media and PR Officer, reflects on his recent visit.

Kingley Vale

I’ve visited National Parks and protected landscapes all over the country – and still have many more special places to discover. I’m always amazed how a beautiful, expansive view, wherever it is, never fails to capture my imagination and intrigue. 

But if there’s one place I’ve been that underlines just how special National Parks are, and why they are needed more than ever, it has to be Kingley Vale. 

It’s only 30 minutes or so from the bustling city of Portsmouth, a place I’ve called home for twenty years. Kingley Vale is like walking onto a movie set of The Lord of the Rings. Far from a human fabrication, though, this is the natural world at its best – and a microcosm of everything so wonderful about the South Downs National Park. 

I recently had the pleasure of yet another trip to this stunning National Nature Reserve. It’s one of those places where the intensity of your amazement grows as the journey goes on. 

It’s a very pleasant walk from the car park to the reserve itself – quintessential English countryside and a mixed farm landscape very typical of the South Downs. 

An Enchanting Ancient Forest

As you step into the reserve itself, the magic happens. Narrow bushy paths open up into a gnarly and primordial-looking forest – almost like an amphitheatre of twisted trunks and branches at every turn. It’s actually one of the finest yew ancient forests in Europe and includes a grove of trees some two-millennia old – thought to be among the oldest living things in Britain. 

You’re surrounded by trees that have stood there since the Romans invaded England’s southern shores. It’s a sanctuary of peace and stillness.

On this particular visit I’m with three hard-working (probably quite sleep-deprived) schoolteacher friends, who really do need the dose of tranquillity on this particular day. I quietly savour hearing their “wows” and “ooos” as we walk through the forest and can feel them relaxing into the beauty of nature.

They’ve never been here before and I can sense their wonderment. My little dog Alfie (on a lead of course) seems to be enjoying the trip as much as us humans. 

Chalk Grassland Valley

Beyond the forest is a stunning chalk grassland valley with butterflies galore, including the beautiful chalkhill blue, holly blue and brimstone.

Like all South Downs chalk grassland, it’s an oasis for biodiversity – you can find up to 40 species of wildflower and over 20 species of butterfly in one square metre. Look up and red kites and buzzards are often hovering, and there’s even a dew pond full of amphibians.  

Yet there’s more. Either take the steps to the top of the hill, or walk through another yew forest, and you’re rewarded with a view fit for a king. Vistas towards the English Channel, Portsmouth’s Spinnaker Tower and Chichester’s Cathedral spire are on the horizon. 

Historic Echoes

The glorious icing on the cake at Kingley Vale is the cultural heritage. I’m as much a fan of history as I am nature and this is where Kingley Vale is the gift that keeps on giving.  

Bronze Age burial mounds stand commandingly on the hill. Stories tell of the Kings’ Graves or Devil’s Humps as the tombs of Viking leaders buried in 894, with the yews marking the battlefield site, stained red with the blood of dead warriors.  

Legend has it that the woods are haunted by these vikings, while one story suggests that the gnarled trees transform into human forms at moonlight.

It’s all so very intriguing and I ponder all these stories of old as I sip my cup of tea while admiring the views. 

As the sun begins to descend, I make my way down the steps to depart Kingley Vale and I know I’ll be back. It’s just that special and truly embodies everything a National Park should be. 

Each of us in my party is uplifted and breathing a little more slowly than when we arrived. Nature is oh so good for the soul. 

Kingley Vale is managed by a small, dedicated team from Natural England. It’s a sensitive site and so important that all visitors leave no trace. By respecting its fragility and doing simple things like keeping dogs on leads and not dropping litter, this ancient site can be enjoyed by many future generations. 

Main image: Kingley Vale © Charlie Hellewell